global organic skin care products market is projected to grow at a CAGR of 8.5%
during 2016-2024 according to a study done by Mordor Intelligence.
is an essential part of personal care. Great skin will never go out of style,
and the innovations and developments in the beauty industry promise to deliver
improved products with a health-friendly touch. Makeup with skin care benefits
has been prevalent in the market for quite a while now.
was not as effective as it is right now. Skin sensitivity is another factor
driving the growth of the organic and natural skin care products market.
Awareness about the harmful effects of chemicals and synthetic products is
another factor augmenting the growth of this market.
4 January 2019
key trends in natural and organic beauty
(5-7th November 2018, Paris) and Asia-Pacific (13-14th November 2018, Hong
Kong) editions of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit were Attended by more than 200
delegates. Organised by Ecovia Intelligence (formerly known as Organic
Monitor), the two events produced a series of key outcomes that draw up an
overview of the main trends driving the global natural and organic beauty
1) Move from
linear to circular design models
A number of
speakers called for a sea change in design thinking of cosmetic products. According to
them, cosmetic and personal care products should be created so that packaging
materials can be re-used or upcycled at the end of their lives.
from TerraCycle said the issue is that most fast-moving consumer goods were designed for single-use,
with packaging ending in landfill or incineration. His company aims to
eliminate the idea of waste by collecting waste materials and using it to
create new products. His organization has already partnered with cosmetic
companies such as Garnier, Colgate-Palmolive, and P&G.
2) Growing array
of natural ingredients
Alain Khaiat from Seers Consulting, a range of functional ingredients are now available for natural
skin care products; they include humectants, rheology
modifiers, emulsifiers, surfactants and emollients. However, according to
Barbara Olioso of The Green Chemist Consultancy, the use of such natural
ingredients brings formulation issues like stability and performance.
of natural and organic ingredients remains a thorny issue. Because of this, DSM
has compared popular certification schemes and the ISO 16128 guidelines to come
up with three simplified categories: certified organic, verified natural, and natural
questions are being asked about the origins, extraction and processing methods
of cosmetic raw materials. There is already pressure for agricultural-based
materials like palm oil to be sustainably sourced.
were given on how improve the sustainability of supply chains:
- Kurt L Nübling, CEO and Founder of PrimaveraLife, gave
details of its ethical sourcing projects for organic essential oils.
- Temuulen Murun from Shiseido raised the issue about the
mineral mica: 75% of global supply comes from north-east India where there
are concerns about health risks and child labour. Although just 18% of
mica goes to the cosmetics industry, about 20 companies have signed up to
the Responsible Mica Initiative.
and Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)
Lergenmüller from Merck showed how supply chains of cosmetic ingredients can be
linked to the SDGs. According to Matthias, traceability can help companies
minimise environmental, social and health risks in their supply chains.
5) Plethora of
schemes and ethical standards continue to gain popularity, with a growing
number of products brandishing symbols and logos. Amarjit
Sahota, Founder and President of Ecovia Intelligence, said the cosmetics
industry is going the same way as the food industry where there are over 200
different ethical labelling schemes.
As far as the
label is concerned, Fabrice Guillemard from DSM believes most
prospects are in Asia, considering the region houses 1.5 billion Muslims.
Indeed, three-quarters of Halal cosmetic launches last year were in the
Asia-Pacific. Indonesia and India are adjudged to have most potential.
Founder and President of the Taiwanese brand Hair O’ Right showed how the
company is formulating products using food side stream ingredients, such as
coffee husks and goji berry roots.
gave insights into how Yves Rocher is integrating sustainability and
innovation. The brand has introduced concentrated shower gels, concentrated
shampoos, and eco-designed cosmetics. While, Slovenian company Hemptouch gave
details on the therapeutic qualities of its cannabis-based skin care products.
efficiency to zero-waste
care companies have put resource efficiency into their sustainability
P&G have gone further to set zero-waste targets. Jacques Euler, Sustainability Program
Leader from the Beauty Manufacturing Division, says the company is set to reach
its target of 100% zero manufacturing waste to landfill from its operations by
2020. Regulations and findings suitable waste partners were cited as major
challenges for the company in meeting this target internationally.
The issue of
ocean plastic came up several times at the summits. Kenny Harmel, Co-Founder of
Galileo Watermark, said his company was compelled to find a solution when it
discovered that a third of all plastic packaging ended up in the ocean. Galileo
Watermark was the first company to launch a cosmetic product with packaging
made from reclaimed ocean plastic. Since the launch of its OCN Cosmetics in
December 2017, several companies have started using ocean plastic; these
include P&G (Head & Shoulders beach plastic bottle), REN Clean Skincare, and Henkel.
9) Novel green
innovative green ingredients for cosmetic and personal care products were
presented at the summits. Clariant gave details of its Genadvance material for
sustainable hair conditioning. Covestro introduced Baycusan, used as a sustainable
polyurethane for personal care products. DuPont showed how its GENENCARE OSMS
BA material is derived from side stream of sugar beet production. Roelmi HPC
presented Celus-Bi as a sustainable alternative to polyethylene beads.
10) Plant cell
are being developed for cosmetic & personal care applications according to
this new technology. Elodie Mauger from Mibelle Biochemistry thus showed how it
has created MossCellTec from biotechnologically produced moss. According to
Anna Holefors, Founder and CEO of In Vitro Plant-Tech, plant cell cultivation
enables the production of tailor-made actives for the cosmetics industry. There
are also sustainability benefits since the technology does not deplete the